Why this may be the perfect time to buy real estate

Well, it’s only taken half a decade, but the moribund real estate market is finally starting to show signs of life. If you were thinking about making a move on a piece of property, right now is possibly the best time. You can still take advantage of low prices in most places around the country, and mortgage rates are at once-in-a-lifetime record lows: 30- and 15-year fixed mortgages are around 4% and 3%, respectively. 

Although prices are still near 2003 levels, the signs of an impending resurgence are everywhere you look. The number of people signing contracts to buy houses rose by around 4% in March, according to the National Association of Realtors, and is the highest it’s been in nearly two years.

Many would-be homebuyers are surprised to find that one fixture of the bubble era is back: the bidding war. According to a recent survey of 28 housing markets conducted by the Wall Street Journal, there are fewer houses for sale in every single one of those places than there were last quarter. This relatively tight inventory in markets as varied as Sacramento, Phoenix and Washington, D.C., dictate that the law of supply and demand is going to kick in. Even in places like Long Island, N.Y., where there’s still a depressing 16-month buildup of housing supply (realtors consider six months’ worth to be a healthy number), the number of available homes is falling.

An increase in short sales is actually a good sign: Short sales do less damage to their surrounding neighborhoods than foreclosures do, both because foreclosures drive values down further and often fall victim to neglect or vandalism. Short sales are also better for banks because they get distressed properties off their books faster and don’t have to pay as much in legal and administrative costs. In a recent blog post, RealtyTrac vice president Daren Blomquist writes, ”Banks have recently been given additional reasons to opt for short sales rather than foreclosure over the past 18 months,” and he forecasts what he describes as a “surge” in short sales this year. By some measures, it’s already begun: Short sales first eclipsed foreclosure sales in November, according to Bloomberg, and RealtyTrac data shows short sales climbed by a third from the beginning of this year as compared with the same period last year.Buyers are no longer shying away from “distressed” properties; that is, short sales and foreclosures. The foreclosure specialists at RealtyTrac.com say there are even bidding wars on foreclosures, because investors know these rock-bottom prices aren’t going to last forever.

Part of what’s driving this movement is more buyers are snapping up properties as rental investments or as vacation homes for themselves. Vacation-home sales grew by 7% last year, as the rising cost of travel drove people to look at “getaways” closer to their primary residences. Trulia chief economist Jed Kolko tells the Wall Street Journal, “People choose second homes that are a shorter drive rather than a plane flight away.”

Purchases of investment properties soared by 65% last year, with many buyers scooping up cheap foreclosures and renting them out. Data from real estate number-crunchers CoreLogic shows that the conversion of foreclosures to rentals will be more than a $100 billion business this year and for the next few years.

People are starting to figure out the huge potential in this market: More than a quarter of all the houses sold last year were investment properties. Fortunately for such buyers, there’s also an unprecedented degree of demand for rental housing: Homeownership hit a 15-year low in the first quarter of this year, according to data from the U.S. Census Bureau, and rent rates, which climbed an average of 5% last year, are historically high compared with the cost of homeownership.

In some places, such as college towns, a buyer-investor often can make an even greater return on the purchase price of a house. In two-thirds of the places surveyed in Coldwell Banker’s College Home Listing Report, you can buy a three-bedroom house for under $200,000. SmartMoney.com points out if the kid renting the house is your offspring, you also can net significant tax savings by purchasing a home and then renting it back to them, thanks to more lenient rules about renting to a family member versus a stranger. (Gift tax laws let you give your son or daughter up to $13,000 a year toward offsetting the cost of those monthly bills, although tax experts recommend that you avoid commingling your accounts and keep a paper trail of canceled checks or rent receipts.)

A new survey from home builder PulteGroup finds that 60% of people renting today would prefer to own their own homes, the Wall Street Journal says. This is good news if you don’t plan on being a landlord forever. When mortgage lending standards loosen, there will be pent-up demand from all those renters looking for a place to call their own. The desire to own a home is particularly strong among the so-called “echo boomers,” adults under 35 years old. This demographic made up 31% of home purchases last year, the National Association of Realtors says, but that’s still a relatively small slice of the roughly 62 million echo boomers in the United States.

Of course, these young adults are also the same ones who have been clobbered by sky-high student loan debt and above-average joblessness, which is keeping some of them on the sidelines of the housing market. Economists say as they mature and attain more financial stability, more will make the transition from renters to homeowners. The desire for homeownership is there; an Urban Land Institute survey conducted in 2010 found that two thirds of 18- to 32-year olds expect to own their own homes by 2015. Even among the remaining one third, 70% say they’ll own a home at some point in the future.

For Americans who either have cash to buy or a credit score good enough to obtain a mortgage, there’s still time to get a killer deal on real estate, but that window may be closing. If your finances can support it, now appears to be a great time to buy.

If you are in the market for a new home at the lake or looking to list your existing property, please contact the Spouses Selling Houses. Until next time! Ebbie :)

July Home Maintenance Checklist

Take advantage of warm weather while playing or doing chores to also cast a protective eye on your home and landscaping. By paying attention, you’ll learn to spot deterioration or changes before they turn into problems.

Give your home an energy audit
Take an hour to walk around your home with a notepad in hand, taking inventory of gaps and cracks. Experts estimate that you can save 20% on heating and cooling bills by plugging leaks. Start your inspection inside. Turn off the electricity at the circuit box, then remove switch-plate covers to look for gaps. (Replace them with insulated covers for $3 to $4 each or install foam inserts — also called gaskets — for about 49 cents each. Both can be purchased at hardware stores.) You can insulate phone-jack covers, too.
Next, check the junctures where windows meet walls, walls meet floors and pipes and wires enter the home, plugging gaps with caulk. Other leaky zones include fireplace dampers, mail slots, window-mounted (or wall-mounted) air conditioners, attic doors, baseboards and weather stripping surrounding doors. Look for daylight, feel for drafts and listen for rattles, all clues to escaping heat. Next, check the house from the outside, examining the places where pipes, vents or wiring enter. Examine siding for gaps or damage, paying particular attention to corners where the material joins and where it meets other materials, like chimneys, windows or the foundation.

If you’d rather get a professional checkup, call your utility company for referrals. Many utilities even provide rebates for home-energy audits performed by recommended auditors.

Insulate hot-water pipes
Insulate the hot-water pipes in the basement or crawl space to save on heating costs next winter. Insulating pipes is done by snapping foam jackets – use pre-slit, hollow-core, flexible foam pipe insulation (called “sleeves”), purchased at a hardware store. (Prices vary but, for example, a 6-foot-long piece of foam insulation for half-inch copper pipe might cost less than a dollar.) When shopping, know your pipe’s diameter to get the correct fit. Exposed pipes pinch your wallet twice: You waste water running it as you wait for it to heat up, and you waste fuel when heat is lost as hot water runs through exposed pipes.

• Tip: Slip sleeves on pipes running between the hot-water tank and the wall and also insulate cold-water pipes for the first 3 feet after they enter the house.

Clean patio furniture
Mix up a bucketful of soapy bleach solution to maintain your patio furniture. Here’s the recipe:

• 2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP)
• 1/3 cup laundry soap powder
• A quart of bleach
• Three quarts of warm water

Remove cushions before spraying. Launder removable fabric coverings. Use a rag and soft-bristle brush to remove embedded dirt on synthetic coverings, metal and wood furniture. Rinse thoroughly and let dry. Spray wicker furniture with water and protect it with paste wax. Simply shoot the garden hose at resin furniture. To remove rust from metal furniture or bolts use Naval Jelly, available at hardware stores, with a wire brush. Wear rubber gloves and follow directions on the package.

• Tip: Return fabric coverings to the cushions and frames on which they belong while still damp, to prevent shrinking.

Clean concrete
Power washers can be dangerous to decks (in the hands of amateurs, they can damage wood), but they’re just the tool for cleaning concrete sidewalks, driveways and patio and pool areas. If your garage or carport floor is marred by oil stains, saturate the area with a solution made from a cup of TSP mixed with a gallon of hot water. (Wear goggles and rubber gloves.) Let the solution soak for a half-hour, then scrub with a stiff-bristled brush. Rinse thoroughly and repeat as necessary.
While washing concrete, watch to ensure that the hard surface directs water away from the home’s foundation. If the concrete sends water toward the foundation, take action. First, inspect around the outside of the foundation for damage, looking for cracks and crumbling. Then check from the inside (go into the basement or crawl space) for water stains and wet soil. If water is getting into the foundation, hire a home inspector or structural engineer to help find a solution. You may need to redirect the drainage by removing or correcting the slope of the concrete. If that’s not feasible, a sump pump could be used to mechanically remove the water. A sump pump’s operation is triggered when water reaches a predetermined level under the home, setting off a floating switch.

Slip 'feet' under deck planters
Since standing water rots wood, make certain that water drains directly onto the ground when you water plants in pots and decorative planters on decks. Make drainage room by setting pots on pot “feet” (sold at garden-supply stores that carry pots). Or use pot stands – some have wheels that enable you to move heavy pots. Or for a frugal solution, just prop bricks under the pots, taking care to ensure that they’re stable.

Patch cracks in concrete
Inspect concrete for cracks. To patch them, clean the cracked area well with a wire brush and small broom. To repair narrow cracks, use masonry crack filler. It comes in cartridges and can be injected into the crack. For bigger openings, apply vinyl concrete patching compound, smoothing the surface with a putty knife.

Patch cracks in asphalt
You can extend the life of an asphalt driveway or path by inspecting it two or three times a year and using a caulking gun and asphalt patching caulk ($5 to $15 a tube) to repair cracks. If you leave cracks, they’ll grow and plants can take root, widening the damage. Squirt the caulk into the cracks and use a disposable putty knife to even the surface. Every five years, treat asphalt to a coat of asphalt sealer ($50-$100 for a five-gallon bucket). Brush it on with a squeegee or push broom.

Prune or remove problem trees
Get a certified arborist to inspect your trees and tell you if any are hazardous. Trees hanging over your roof, rubbing against gutters or dropping loads of leaves and sticks onto the roof should be pruned. Overhanging branches can provide a ladder for rats and squirrels, and diseased or damaged trees may fall on your home in a storm. A typical arborist’s fee is $65 an hour.

Trees can bring up boundary issues. They may straddle the property line between you and your neighbor or the branches from your neighbor’s tree may drop fruit onto your land. Although state tree laws vary, in general you have the right to trim branches on your side of the property line as long as you don’t endanger the life of the tree. If you kill the neighbor’s tree, you are liable. An arborist who understands local laws can be a great mediator between neighbors.

Clean exhaust fans
Exhaust fans do a lot of work in your home. In bathrooms, they push out moisture to keep walls and floors dry and prevent the growth of mold. (Be sure to run the fan before taking a bath or shower and keep it running for 15 minutes after you leave the room, so moisture has a chance to clear.) Before you begin cleaning the fan, turn off its power at the circuit-breaker box. Dust the vents on the fan’s cover (do this monthly). Use a screwdriver to remove the cover. Gently clean the inside of the cover and the fan blade with a slightly damp cloth or spray cleaner and a paper towel. Dry and reassemble. Do this twice a year. In kitchens, exhaust fans vent moisture along with oily fumes. Making sure the electricity is disconnected at the circuit breaker box, start by removing the washable filter from the stove's exhaust fan. You’ll find the fan either in the range between the burners or in a hood over the stove. If the fan can be pulled out, unplug it, remove it and extract the filter. Otherwise, just remove the filter. Put it through the dishwasher or soak it in warm soapy water. Vacuum the opening of the fan, then clean the blades and housing with a cloth and spray cleaner or degreaser.

Mend the fence
Even the cheapest new fences cost thousands of dollars. Protect your investment by looking for damage and making prompt repairs. Before touring your fence line, mow the grass low so you’ll have good visibility. Watch for signs that dogs have tunneled under the fence. Training and a watchful eye are the best ways to prevent dogs from digging. Otherwise, attaching a 2-foot-wide apron of wire mesh around the inside perimeter of the fence may work.

As you walk the fence, test the strength of the connections by gently tugging posts and slats to ensure they’re well-attached. Check fence posts for signs of rot (poke soft spots in the wood for crumbling or decay). Remove and replace the damaged areas. Keep fences painted or stained to protect the wood. Repaint or stain when the original finish is thin, cracked or peeling. Before painting, hose off and scrub dirty boards, letting them dry thoroughly.

Repel deer
Deer can demolish hundreds or thousands of dollars of landscaping in an evening or two. There are several things you can do to keep deer away from your investment:

• Use deer-proof plantings. Identify deer-resistant plants or check a plant’s status with Rutgers University’s New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station’s tool. Bear in mind that such lists are no guarantee: Deer often eat plants they’re not supposed to like.
• Install a mini fence or put bird netting around prized plants. Garden stores have these materials and can instruct you how to use them.
• Spray with a home-made deer repellent. Search online garden forums for recipes for repellents that blend eggs, hot sauce (or cayenne pepper), raw garlic, yogurt or buttermilk and dish soap. Spray every three or four days and after a rain.
• Purchase one of the better commercial deer repellent sprays. Check with your local garden store or cooperative extension master gardeners for recommendations.

July is a percfect time to hit the above checklist. if you are in the market for a new home at the lake or even looking to list your existing home, please give the Spouses Selling Houses a call. Until next time. Ebbie :)

Watering Plants During Drought

Landscapes are suffering from drought conditions. Shade trees, lawns, shrubs, flower beds, and vegetables require deep, thorough watering on a regular basis to maintain healthy and safe growth.

The duration (how much) and frequency (how often) regarding watering varies greatly with the age of the plant, plant type, sun exposure, soil conditions, planting site preparation, and the environment. It is best to water in the early morning so plants will have available water throughout the sunny day.

Mulching newly planted and established plantings will help conserve soil moisture. Many types of mulch are available including pine straw, shredded bark, shredded hardwood, etc. Apply a 1-2 inch thick mulch layer around tender bedding plants and shallow-rooted herbaceous plants and a thicker layer, up to 4-inches, around shrubs and trees.

The best irrigation is accomplished by allowing water to slowly penetrate the soil. If water puddles on the surface, stop, and then start watering again after all water has been absorbed. Dig a hole to check the depth the water has penetrated.

An important part of gardening successfully is learning to water your plants properly. Learning how to water properly is not complicated, but during hot, dry weather it can make a world of difference to the health of the plants in your landscape.

Most plants in the landscape, but particularly those planted this spring, will need supplemental watering during hot, dry weather conditions. Moisture stress due to lack of available water can result in reduced flowering, leaf drop, increased pest problems, substantial decline or even plant death and the loss of the investment they represent. Applying water deeply and thoroughly when needed is the key to proper watering.

Hand watering is ideal for watering plants growing in containers and hanging baskets. To water properly, apply water until you see it come out of the drainage holes. Plants in containers have a limited amount of soil for the roots to grow in, and they dry out very rapidly during hot, dry weather. These plants often need to be watered every day, especially those growing in smaller pots.

Don’t allow container plants to wilt before watering them. Even though they may revive, wilting causes damage that can lead to bud drop, leaf drop and scorched leaf edges. If you find that you need to water container plants more than once a day to prevent wilting, the plants are probably root bound and need to be repotted into a larger container, or you need to move them into a shadier location.

Proper watering is not that hard. But it is very important, especially when the weather is hot and dry. It basically requires watching the weather, paying attention to your plants, checking the moisture in the soil and common sense.

Following these tips will help assure that your plants remain healthy during the ongoing drought.

Shade trees: Water large, established shade trees every two weeks in the absence of a deep, soaking rain. During periods of drought and without supplemental water from irrigation, the wood within the tree can develop internal cracks which can result in branch failure. Maintain health and safety by watering to a depth of 8-10 inches every two weeks.

Lawns: Centipede and St. Augustine grass develop leaves and roots from above-ground stolons. As the grass wilts from lack of water, stolons become stressed and overall plant growth and health suffer. Maintain lawn vigor by watering thoroughly to a depth of 4 inches when the grass blades begin to fold inward.

Shrubs: Established woody shrubs like azalea, holly, camellia, cleyera, hydrangea, etc., will require water weekly. Water newly planted plants at first sign of wilting. Some evergreens do not wilt but the leaf color will change - so be alert.

Flower beds: Tender bedding plants and herbaceous perennials often require frequent watering - possibly twice a week. Plants may wilt during midday heat but revive after the sun goes down. Avoid overwatering and saturating the soil.

Vegetables: As plants grow and mature and begin producing a crop, they will require ever-increasing amounts of water. Any water stress may result in flower drop and crop loss.

Stay cool while attempting to save your landscaping during these tough drought conditions. Until next time. Ebbie :)!

Insure Fireworks Safety

For people who prefer to avoid the crowds and celebrate the holidays with fireworks at home, a few tips can help keep everyone safe and happy this week.

In 2010, emergency rooms across the country treated approximately 8,600 people for fireworks-related injuries. Almost three-fourths of those injuries occurred between June 18 and July 18. Of those, according to the United States Fire Administration:

•65 percent were to males and 35 percent were to females

•40 percent of the injuries were children under 15 years old

•Children and young adults under 20 years old had 53 percent of the estimated injuries

•An estimated 900 injuries were associated with firecrackers

•An estimated 1,200 injuries were associated with sparklers and 400 with bottle rockets

•The parts of the body most often injured were hands and fingers (30 percent), legs (22 percent), eyes (21 percent) and head, face and ears (16 percent)

•More than half of the injuries were burns

To ensure that your home fireworks display is as safe as possible, experts say that it is important to follow all the directions and use common sense.

“If you just follow the directions fireworks are relatively safe,” Mike McCain, owner of Insane McCain Fireworks, said. “The only problems we’ve had in the past, and I’ve been in this business 27 years, was people misusing them. They’ve come a long way with technology and how fireworks shoot. Usually they’re pretty true about what they’re suppose to do.”

The Consumer Product Safety Commission and the National Council on Fireworks Safety also recommends:

•Buy from reliable sources

•Always have a plan to safely extinguish fireworks, such as a bucket of water and a garden hose in case things get out of hand

•Never try to re-light a firework. If one fails, wait 15-20 minutes and douse it with water

•Never point or throw fireworks at people, animals or property

•Never shoot fireworks in a metal or glass container

•The person lighting the fireworks should have protective eye wear and use caution when handling fireworks.

Local veterinarians also caution that people with outdoor pets should bring the pets in or ensure they are secured because normally docile animals can often become panicked during a fireworks show.

These animals can become destructive or escape.

Please have a happy and safe 4th of July and we would love to see you if you plan on visiting the Lake of the Ozarks. Until next time!! Ebbie :)

Buying Real Estate for the First Time

Buying real estate for the first time can be an exciting point in your life.  Most people dream of what their first home will look like and are anxious when the time finally comes.  However, there are a few things you want to take care of prior to buying your first home.

1. Know your credit
The first thing a lender is going to look at is your credit and FICO score.  Your FICO score will be within the range of 400 to 850 with 850 being the high end.  You want your FICO score to be as high as possible.  Take the time to attain a credit report and find out exactly what your score is.

2. Know your finances
As soon as you know your credit score, the next step to buying real estate is knowing your finances.  You are going to find that the down-payment to purchasing a home can be quite a huge hit.  Just keep in mind that there are many different loans/mortgages out there that offer low down-payment options for you.  But you do not want to get into a home you cannot afford.

3. Get pre-approved
When you meet with a mortgage broker or banker, you want to ask them to pre-approve you.  Pre-approval is an underwriting of your file and will help you identify how much you can actually spend on a house.  You will have to provide your income documentation, credit and many other things in order to underwrite your file.

4. Down-payment assistance programs
Most people are not going to be able to pay for the entire home upfront and may not even be able to afford the down-payment.  As you meet with your mortgage broker or banker, have them look at down payment assistance programs for you.  Having them look for you will help you find what programs are available and if you qualify for them.

5. First-time home buyer classes
When buying real estate for the first time, look into first-time home buyer classes.  You will find that many lenders and realtors offer home buyer education classes.  This will help you learn about applying for a loan, working with a realtor, bargaining, making an offer, and going to closing.  The more you know about the overall process the smoother it will go for you.
Buying your first home is a huge step.  While it can be a bit overwhelming if you are unprepared, there are classes and programs that can help smooth the process.  Keep in mind the five steps in this article as you look into buying real estate for the first time.

If you're looking for a home in the lake area please contact the Spouses Selling Houses team. Until next time. Ebbie :)!

Heating and Cooling Your Home for Less

 

When you think about heating and cooling your home, do you think about energy efficiency? The more efficient heating and cooling systems are, the less they cost to run. That means your utility bills can be lower. Energy efficiency is good for the environment, too. Before you invest in a new system, ask about the EnergyGuide label – it lets you know how energy efficient a model is compared to others like it. Products that meet certain energy efficiency criteria will have the Energy Star logo. Want to save energy but not in the market for a new system? Consider a professional or do-it-yourself home energy assessment, which can show you how specific fixes – like sealing air leaks or beefing up insulation – could help you save energy.

Think "Efficiency"

More than half of the energy use in a typical home goes toward heating and cooling it, according to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE). While there's plenty to consider when you look at new heating and cooling systems – the latest options, the cost to buy them, and your short- and long-term needs – it's also important to look at how much energy they use and cost to operate.
By choosing the most energy-efficient equipment that meets your needs, you may be able to spend less money to heat and cool your home. Using less energy is good for the environment, too; it can reduce air pollution and help conserve natural resources.

Here's how to tell how efficient a system is:

Once you know which systems could work for you, here's how you find out about the energy efficiency of specific models:

• The EnergyGuide label. Anyone selling heating and cooling systems – central air conditioners, furnaces, boilers, and heat pumps – has to let you know about a product's energy use before you buy it. Manufacturers provide that information on a product's EnergyGuide label. But depending on how you shop, you may not see the actual product and label, so the information might be on a website, a fact sheet, a brochure, or a directory. If they don't point the information out, ask.

For more on the EnergyGuide label, required by the Appliance Labeling Rule, which is enforced by the FTC, read Energy Guidance: Appliance Shopping With the EnergyGuide Label. EnergyGuide labels let you know how energy efficient a model is compared to others like it.

• The Energy Star logo. The logo means the product meets certain energy efficiency criteria set by the Environmental Protection Agency and DOE. Learn more and look up specific products at energystar.gov.

How Else Can I Save on Energy?

Being an energy-smart consumer means getting the most from the energy you use:

Do a home energy assessment.

A home energy assessment is a careful look at how efficient your heating and cooling systems are and where your home is wasting energy – say, through air leaks or under-insulated attics and ducts. Your utility company may offer free or low-cost energy assessments, or it may recommend a local company or organization to do them. Check with your state or local government energy or weatherization office for recommendations, or visit energysavers.gov for more resources.

• A professional assessment with special equipment like blower doors and infrared cameras might cost several hundred dollars. Before you choose a company, be sure to get several references, and check the company record with your local consumer protection agency and the Better Business Bureau (BBB). Make sure the auditor uses a calibrated blower door and does thermographic inspections, or else contracts with another company to do them. Expect recommendations for specific fixes and improvements you can make.
• A do-it-yourself assessment is an option if your budget doesn't allow for a professional. For more on how to do it, visit DOE's Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy (EERE), or use the online tool at hes.lbl.gov.

Seal air leaks and insulate:

• Seal air leaks around windows, doors, and places where pipes and wires come through walls. Check existing caulking and weatherstripping for gaps or cracks.
• Check ducts for holes and gaps where sections have separated and air may be leaking. You can seal some leaks yourself with mastic sealant or metal tape (don't use duct tape). Hiring a professional to repair leaky ducts can be a good investment.
• Bring your insulation up to DOE-recommended levels wherever your energy assessment shows it's needed.

If your home has very old or inefficient windows, it might be more cost effective to replace them. Learn more at energysavers.gov/your_home.

Look into special energy efficiency offers.

Ask your local utility or system salesperson about cash rebates, low-interest loans, tax breaks, or other incentives for buying energy-efficient products, and how you can qualify. You can learn about tax credits and incentives at energysavers.gov.

Don't overlook the small stuff.

The savings might be small, but they add up. Other energy-saving ideas include:

• Lowering your thermostat in winter and bumping it up in summer before you go to bed or head out for the day, or get a programmable thermostat to do it automatically.
• Checking filters for forced-air furnaces, heat pumps, or air conditioners as recommended to see if they need to be cleaned or replaced, and checking that fireplace dampers are closed when you don't have a fire going.
• Considering a budget-billing program, if your utility or oil company offers one. While you won't actually pay less, a budget-billing plan spreads your costs over the whole year, protecting your budget from seasonal spikes. If you're on a fixed income or have trouble paying your utility bills, contact your utility company. They, or your state or local government, may have energy assistance plans.

If you use heating oil, consider shopping around to make sure you're getting a good price. Research a company and its service before you sign a contract. If you live where you can choose your natural gas provider, shop for a good price on gas.

Don't get burned by "energy-saving" products and services.

Be skeptical of gadgets and products that promise drastic reductions in home cooling costs or extreme energy savings. Make sure any product claims can be verified by an independent source you trust. Resist high-pressure door-to-door sales calls for furnaces, windows, and other home improvement products. For more on finding a contractor who's licensed and reputable, read Home Sweet Home Improvement. Remember that the Cooling-Off Rule gives you three business days to cancel a contract if you sign it in your home or at a location other than the contractor's permanent place of business.

If in the market for a new lake home, or if you're looking to seel your existing lake home, please contact the Spouses Selling Houses team. Until next time! Ebbie :)

Home Inspection Tip

A home inspection is important whether you're buying or selling a home. Where does radon testing fit into the picture?

Let's look first at considerations from a home seller's perspective. If your inspector or another qualified professional has already tested your home for radon, the buyer wants assurance the testing was done correctly. She may ask that testing be redone if certain conditions aren't met.

Did testing comply with the EPA radon checklist or your state's protocol? Was testing done within the past two years? Have you made any renovations on your home since testing was done? Does your prospective buyer want to live in a basement or level lower than where testing was done?

She may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires the disclosure of radon information to buyers and that disclosure hasn't been made. If you haven't yet had your home tested for radon, have it done as soon as possible. Test in the lowest level of the home that can be regularly occupied. Test in an area such as a basement or playroom area if that area could be used by your buyer.
If you do the radon test yourself, carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test your home, you'll protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.

How do you find a qualified professional to do the testing? Ask your home inspector. Also, your state should have an office that deals with radon issues. They may be able to provide you with a list of testers in your area. Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified, or registered.
If your state doesn't regulate radon related services, ask your home inspector or a reliable contractor if he holds a license, or a proficiency or certification credential. Has he completed training in measuring radon and properly dealing with radon issues? You may also want to contact the American Society of Home Inspectors, the National Association of Home Inspectors, or the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors.

Let's look at the other side of the coin. What if you're buying a home? The EPA says if you are thinking of buying a home, you can choose to accept an earlier test result from the seller. Or you can ask the seller for a new test to be done by a qualified radon tester. Before you accept the seller's test results, ask a few questions. What did previous tests show? Who did the actual testing? Where in the home was the previous testing done? Was it in the level in which you plan to live? Have any changes been made to the home since it was tested? For example, have there been any alterations to the heating and cooling systems?

If you accept the seller's test results, be sure the test complied with the EPA checklist or relevant state protocols. If you think a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as soon as possible. If you decide to use a qualified radon tester to have it retested yourself, contact your state radon office for a copy of their approved list of radon testing individuals and companies.

If the seller hasn't had the home tested, ask that it be done. Consider including radon testing provisions in the contract. Note where in the home the testing will be done and who will do the testing. Also note the type of test to be done and when it will be done. How will the seller and buyer share the test results? Who pays for the cost of testing?

You'll want to be sure radon testing is done on the level you intend to occupy, whether it's the first floor or basement area. If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area after you buy the home, a radon test should be taken before starting the project and again after the project is finished. Generally, it's less expensive to install a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than afterward. Of course if you are in the market for a new lake home please call the Spouses Selling Houses team. Until next time. Ebbie:)